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5mm L.E.D. Door Handle Lights

This is a fairly easy write-up, but I will explain each step of the build for those who wish to attempt this kind of work for the first time. This mod is designed to replace the factory Pontiac Firebird or Chevrolet Camaro Door handle Lights that light up the window and lock controls at night with an LED array. This not only provides more light, but it will also consume less power. This write-up is also made so that you can completely return your door handle light back to stock if you wish at a later time. If you have any questions please feel free to shoot me an e-mail.

This version is much brighter than the 3mm version that is around, and I for one am much happier with this.

SPECIAL THANKS to InfiniteReality for the original idea and inspiration to do this.

INVENTORY

Required Tools:

1. Soldering Iron (with solder) OR wire crimps (2)

2. Dikes

3. Needle Nose Pliers

4. Small File

5. Medium Philips screwdriver

Materials Needed:

1. Electrical Tape and Heat Shrink

2. * 2 - 240 ohm 1 Watt, 1% carbon film resistors

3. * 2 - 20000 mcd 5mm Red LED's (Substitutions possible) (Firebird = Red, Camaro = White)

TOTAL BUILD PRICE (minus expendable materials) = $3.00 Plus Free Shipping!!!

* - Means that item can be supstituded with another of similar chareteristics

This is for materials ONLY!!

________________________________________________________________

If you would like to purchase the Pre-Modified L.E.D.'s
All you have do to insert the L.E.D.'s and splice in the resistor

Contents:

1. Heat Shrink

2. 2 - 240 ohm 1 Watt, 1% carbon film resistors

3. 2 - 20000 mcd 5mm Red LED's

(pre-modified so all you have to do is drop it into the bulb housing!)

$5.00

***** If I forgot something or you found a better way please tell me so I can update this to make it easier for others!! *****

Step 1

Take the Philips screw driver and remove the cneter screw on the door handle trim piece. Once you have removed the screw gently grab an edge of the switch panel and pull upwards evenly from the top and bottom. This piece is held on by clips that are designed to be pulled out. This panel is also latched into the door handle beauty plate so make sure you remove the switch panel first.

This will give you enough room to be able to pull the trim piece away from the door enough to gain access to the light connector. The connector will just twist out like any other light bulb houseing.

Gently yet firmly remove the light bulb. This can be a pain in the A**, but have patience and excercise caution if handleing the bulb with your hands. The bulb is glass and can break if you are not carefull resulting in a lot of profanity and bloody pain.

Step 3

With the bulb removed the next thing that needs to be done is the installation of the resistor inline of the bulb houseing. Take the TAN wire and cut it at a point so that this whole process can be undone if you would like. This would be far enough away from the door and bulb housing so that you could cut and splice again if you wanted to. I chose to go about 3 inches from the bulb housing.

SOLDER METHOD

- Once you have done this strip enough of the wire to make a small hook with the bare wire.

- Do the same with the resistor, but as close to the resistor body as possible to avoid excess exposed wire. (not really a big deal just a personal preference for me.)

- Once you have these hooks made link them all together and squeeze the hooks shut. Now they are ready for solder and a good layer of electrical tape over the whole thing or just a good strong wrap with some electrical tape.

SPLICE METHOD

- Strip the two ends of the wire

- Take the splice component and put one end of the resistor in one side and the wire in the other and crimp it closed. Repeat for the other side.

Step 4

Now that the housing is ready for the L.E.D. lets get the L.E.D. ready. Take the L.E.D. and slightly bend each of the legs outward about 35 to 45 degrees or just enought to fit into the opening of the bulb housing. Make sure that you do not bend the lead at the base of the L.E.D. becuase this may damage the L.E.D.

This bend is allow you to just plug the L.E.D. into the housing. Also remember the the flat side of the L.E.D. is the negative lead.

Step 5

Now that the L.E.D. is bent you are almost ready for installation. This is the most difficult part of all. When you go to insert the L.E.D. into the bulb housing MAKE SURE THE POSITIVE LEAD GOES TO THE TAN WIRE! This will ensure proper operation otherwise the L.E.D. will NOT light. Insert one leg of the L.E.D. first and then the other so that the legs slide into the connectors where the bulb would normally sit. This may take some time to get right so take your time.

The Key is to get the leads to slide into one of openings for the bulb connectors, and also ensure that the L.E.D. LEADS ARE NOT TOUCHING. You will know this when the LED slides snuggly into the housing. If you encounter a good amount of resistance then you probably bent the L.E.D. Leads. You will know the feeling while you are inserting the L.E.D.

You may need to sand or file off the bottom lip of the LED to get it to slide in, but when doing so ensure that you mark which side is POSITIVE or you will be playing the guessing game. (Nothing major just irritating)

******If you are unsure of yourself take a multi-meter and test the resistance at the bottom of the connector. If it is install correctly then you will have infinite resistance, but if it is not installed correctly then you will have 0 resistance and you need to try and repeat step 5. *****

Step 6

This is the moment of truth. Turn on your headlight switch and they should work like a champ!

BEFORE!	AFTER!!!!

The camera does not do L.E.D. light justice, but I can say that everyone that has seen this has really liked the improvement!

Standard Legal Notice

*** All information in this write-up is complete to the best of my knowledge, and when properly done will have no adverse effects. I will not be held responsible or held liable for any direct or indirect malfunctions, destruction, personal injury, or damage to property as a result of your attempt to perform this write-up***

If you have any questions what so ever concerning this or any other F-body related topic please feel free to contact me, and I will do my best to awnser that question. Thank You for stopping by!

** All Data (i.e. schmatics, how to's, and ideas) are copyright protected. Any use of this information for personal profit is prohibited, and is punishable by law.**

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